GTK portal does not provide Settings

I’ve been trying to get everything working with my Hyprland setup. Well, everything basically works, but the desktop portal of last resort (xdg-desktop-portal-gtk) does not provide some of the interfaces, such as org.freedesktop.portal.Settings. For example, when starting Chrome, I get this warning:

(google-chrome:6127): Gdk-WARNING **: 00:30:12.935: Failed to read portal settings: GDBus.Error:org.freedesktop.DBus.Error.UnknownMethod: No such interface “org.freedesktop.portal.Settings” on object at path /org/freedesktop/portal/desktop

I think Settings is the interface that provides information like the light/dark mode preference.

This used to be the upstream default in xdg-desktop-portal-gtk before version 1.5.1 when building without GNOME, but then people realized these interfaces are not supposed to be in any way Gnome specific:

It looks like the Nix recipe still disables those interfaces. I tried to override this setting, but it somehow broke antialiasing in at least Firefox, Chrome and wofi. I don’t quite understand what’s going on with that.

How do people running with xdg-desktop-portal-gtk set their light/dark preference? Do you actually have a portal that implements org.freedesktop.portal.Settings? (AppChooser is another missing interface.)