Ah, I found the solution…, it had already been reported on GitHub ten months ago
LuaLaTeX luaotfload fails to find a font · Issue #180639 · NixOS/nixpkgs · GitHub and even been documented in nixpkgs
nixpkgs/doc/languages-frameworks/texlive.section.md at 64edd99db0e71161886690ebcf23055725db3c38 · NixOS/nixpkgs · GitHub
Not sure why that was beyond my attention earlier…