I seem to be stuck because a binary cache is down

There are 2 issues here:

  1. an unavailable cache prevents you from moving forward, which is indeed a problem, and
  2. changing the nix configuration when you cannot run nixos-rebuild and friends

As for the latter, remember, there is nothing preventing you from manually editing the files under /etc.

So you can:

  sudo cp $(realpath /etc/nix/nix.conf) /etc/nix/nix.conf
  sudo chmod 644 /etc/nix/nix.conf
  # change whatever you want in your editor of choice
  sudo systemctl restart nix-daemon

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