We just merged meson: enable auto_features by default by jtojnar · Pull Request #63493 · NixOS/nixpkgs · GitHub to staging.
That means we are now passing -Dauto_features=enabled to Meson, which forcefully enables all project features that are auto-detected by default. Previously we forcefully disabled them, which lead to confusion when a packager added dependencies required by a feature but the project still built without the feature.
You can disable the features you do not want by adding mesonFlags = [ "-Dfeature_name=disabled" ]; to the package expression. The names of features are listed in the meson_options.txt file in the root of the project. Alternately, you can also add mesonAutoFeatures = "disabled"; to the expression to revert to the previous behaviour.
See also Meson documentation of features